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JOHNSON F50


лодка шкипер 260 в новосибирске найти мотор для лодки универсальные рыболовные поплавки рыболовный интернет магазин в спб обводный канал п. рейдово курильский рыбак
катушки с матчевыми шпулями изготавливаем воблера сами ловля толстолобика на спиннинг видео сколько стоит лодка крым в томске подводные лодки бывают
не ловит сеть после активации гребной винт обороты ремикс зажигай солнце зажигай небо я ловлю осень на губах снега как привязать леску к катушке на фидер недорогие рыболовные базы в астраханской обл
ловля щуки на кружки в июне винт для лодочный мотор hdx 5 или 6 метровая удочка магазины рыболовных товаров в харькове серебряный ручей зачем подводную лодку покрывают резиной

You can use these tags: Суда Надувные Металлические Гидроциклы Моторы Винты Масло Разное Эхолоты Насосы Тесты Советы Контакты Реклама. Надувные Admiral Aqua Marina Altair Argo Badger Bark Brig Brigantina Flagman Flinc Fregat Gladiator Honda HonWave Hunter Мнев и К Nissamaran Nordik Poseidon ProfMarine Rotan Silverado Solar Stingray Sun Marine WinBoat Yamaran Yukona Zodiac Металлические Вельбот Воронеж ДМБ Казанка Крым Laker Обь Прогресс Романтика Салют Гидроциклы Yamaha. И в году выпускает мопед, названный "Power Free". Он оборудован ти кубовым двухтактным двигателем с двухзвёздчатой системой, позволяющей либо подключать к колесу двигатель, либо обычный педальный привод. Система оказалось настолько оригинальной, что патентное бюро нового демократического правительства Японии гарантировало субсидии на дальнейшие разработки в мотостроении. Так и родилась Suzuki Motor Corporation. Troll 1 Volvo Penta 19 Watersnake 13 Yadao 6 Yamabisi 18 Yamaha Yanmar 23 Zip Star 1 Zongshen 85 Бийск 2 Ветерок 51 Вихрь 74 Медуза 3 Москва 12 Нептун 18 Парус 2 Привет 3 СИЧ 1 Салют 5 Стрела 3. Стационарный 2 Подвесной В наличии 34 Под заказ Для классических карбюраторных двухтактников приговор вынесен окончательно. Менее чем за три года эти моторы исчезли со страниц каталогов по причине введения новых экологических норм. Несмотря на это моторостроители все же продолжают делать ставку на сравнение. Шесть моделей из восемнадцати испытанных - карбюраторные двухтактники. Был период, когда двухтактные моторы еще сохраняли преимущество в скорости и приемистости над только что появившимися четырехтактниками. В диапазоне мощностей л. Ни один двухтактный в 50 л. Судостроение Моторы Проекты Спорт Консультации Кругозор Истории.

технические характеристики лодочного мотора джонсон 50

Описание моторов Устройство моторов Самодельные моторы Тюнинг моторов Обслуживание моторов Дистанционное управление. День добрый, Вот захотел подкрасить редуктор, возник вопрос - чем бы грунтануть его, 2х компонентный грунт подойдет? Вчера 1 раз вышел на воду и в первый же день прошли порядка 44км. Залил 45л вернулся почти на парах, да было рискованно, но При включении передачи никаких толчков звуков и пинаний не происходило, что меня очень порадовало, отхожу хотя бы сезон, сравнивал с мерком, который вероятно уже был ушатан так как при втыкании скорости его заметно дергало. Разобрался с бендиксом, оный был промыт разобарн и собран. Некоторые опытные данные о расходе топлива Основным доводом оппонентов использования зарубежных моторов средней мощности, является, как правило, дешевизна 76 бензина. Мол, теперь, покупая 40 — 50 сильный движок, работающий на 92 бензине, вы будете нести значительно большие расходы на покупку горючего. Два года эксплуатации двигателя JOHNSON на лодке Казанка-5 позволяют с достаточной степенью достоверности ответить всё же на вопрос так ли это. Сравнение пойдет с лучшим по расходу топлива отечественным двигателем Нептун Когда речь заходит о расходе топлива, достоверные результаты можно получить, используя лодку на достаточно протяженных, не менее — километров, маршрутах, проходимых туда и обратно. Для сравнения моторов необходимо отметить галочкой интересующие модели и нажать сравнить. Лодочные Моторы Описание лодочных моторов. Be careful when reassembling the handle as there is a internal thrust spacer between the spring and the handle that has 2 protruding lugs that have to align with notches on the main arm. You may need to twist things until the lugs engage, then after they are, you may again need to twist the handle so that the screw in the shaft align with the hole in the handle. Be very careful that everything is square, properly positioned when you try to start the screw, as the shaft is aluminum and the screw is stainless. If it starts but goes in cross-threaded, it will just get tighter, to the point that it will not go all the way in. This can be a problem later, as the screw may not be able to be removed without breaking the plastic handle. If it does cross-thread, it may be wise to get a tap, clean up the threads in the shaft. If you need to do any work on the gears, you will need to remove the large snap ring 67 in the illustration above. To do this you need to use snap ring pliers, which can be a bear because of the limited area. Once the snap ring is off the gear and shaft can be withdrawn from the front IF you tip the handle all the way up. Look at the ends of the shaft as you withdraw it, as it has to go back the same way described below. This can be performed without tearing any major parts of the motor apart. I have used plastic off margarine tubs, made a washer that can be put on the geared shaft so it fits forward of 66 and against the housing.

This shaft and gear are spring loaded inside the twist grip so when shimming here it pushes 66 tighter into 65 gear. The newer parts have both bronze teeth as compared to sintered steel, nylon or aluminum for the older units. The pivot nut 83 shown in the pictures in the 7 section below is really only a jam nut locking the bolt it is threaded onto from rotating in the arm itself when the handle is raised or lowered. This bolt head is buried under the front bracket, which is threaded into the side of this bracket. To get to it you need to go under and in the channel behind the front plate bar. If the handle is just loose, to tighten it, you need to loosen this 83 nut, then tighten the bolt to the desired tension, then retighten the nut against the outside of the tiller arm. If you tip it up farther and twist the throttle, you can experience these teeth to jump out of mesh 1 or 2 gear teeth without knowing what you just did. It will not rev up to maximum speed as this flat will not allow complete shaft throttle movement. There is a rubber cover on the top that does not allow you to see what has just happened. These gears at the handle pivot have one large flat on each, about the spacing of 2 gear teeth which have to mate, acting as a timing situation and main thrust function. When timed right these 2 wide gears should mate together in a position mostly in the upper position. Farther inside is a vertical bevel gear that sits in the lower cowling is held in position by a separate plastic shaft These 2 bevel gears have a dot on one with a groove on the other, which need to be aligned. In reassembling the intermediate shaft 53to the gears, there are timing marks on all mating parts. The shaft has square ends, mating with square holes in the gears. These lumps mate into matching small notches in the square holes in the gears. If your twist grip has a lot of slop in it, meaning it rotates considerably before the timing plate moves the snap ring 67 may have popped out of the groove in gear The photo below shows this snap ring in location. Snap ring 65 in the shaft groove for a 9. If you have slack between the handle itself and the linkage for the throttle plate, then you can shim this shim will need a LARGE hole in the center the bevel gear 52 on the end of the intermediate shaft and the housing, pushing it rearward into a better mesh with the other bevel gear As mentioned previously these shims can be made from old milk jugs or tops of discarded margarine tubs.

The and 52 gears are bevel gears mating into each other, it is easier to shim under the other bevel gear raising it for a better mesh with 52 gear. Shimming UNDER the gear is easier because this can be done without disassembling the front shafts and tiller handle. You can make a plastic shim the size of the gear, again out of a plastic milk jug or margarine tub that has a center hole that the bevel gear shaft will go thru. This should force the gear higher, meshing tighter with 52 gear because they are beveled and eliminate some of your slack. These last two jobs will have to be performed after the manual starter, vertical control shaft and vertical control shaft gear are removed. With the scarcity and expense of these old parts, it seems best to just remark the tiller handle base with a felt marking pen. If you run into a situation where the twist grip is HARD to turn, there are a few things to look at. To check this out disconnect the timing plate linkage at the washer and cotter pin. Now try the twist grip rotation again. This should help you isolate the problem somewhat.

Подвесные лодочные моторы Suzuki ( Сузуки ):

Check the twist grip to see that it has not jumped a tooth at the pivot point where the handle lifts up. If this is the case, your throttle indicator for START will not be in the right location relationship to the carburetor and the timing plate cam. This could cause the motor to not want to start when the throttle indicator is in the START position. This is explained in a subsequent section. You can check this by raising the handle, looking from the front at the mesh of the teeth on the 2 gears.

Расшифровка обозначений лодочных моторов Johnson 1970 - 1998 годов выпуска

One has a WIDE tooth that has to mesh with the other gear that is missing a tooth. If these teeth get out of mesh, about the easiest way to re-position them is to tip the handle as far rearward as possible, use a medium sized screwdriver, position the twist grip so it is aligned as best you can get it, then insert the screwdriver between the teeth, pry one tooth past the other and hope you do not break one off. The other method is to pull the twist grip off, tip the lever rearward, slide the shaft forward, realign the teeth and reinstall the retainer screw in the twist grip. The nut seen here is the 83 nut mentioned in the 6 section above. Gears out of mesh. Occasionally on the 86 and newer motors you may encounter one of the throttle cable systems that the twist grip will not stay where you put it. The motor will usually slowly slow the speed down by itself if you let go of the twist grip throttle. A solution shown in the earlier section for this was passed on by a retired marine mechanic.

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  • His solution was to take a electricians 4 or 6 copper grounding split bolt clamp, simply clamp it around the throttle cable in an out of the way place. There is enough room on these models to place it on the cable beside the carburetor. Tighten the nut enough to just squeeze the cable inside the plastic sheath. Works like a charm. You might laugh at this question, but if it runs and has no power, or dies at an idle, is it running on both cylinders? It will usually also be a harder to start when cold. I have even trolled all day long on just one cylinder firing. Here was a situation that after traveling for an hour to get to the bay, I had no high speed power, simply would not rev up. I knew there was a problem, but I did not want to take the time setting in the water at the launch to trouble shoot it, and trolling with my 70 hp jet would be about impossible. I ran that 9. The tried and true method of checking whether it is running on one cylinder is while it is running at a low or medium speed, pull one spark plug wire off, replace it, then pull the other. If it is running on just one cylinder it will die when you pull off the spark plug wire that is firing. If it is only running on one cylinder, there could be many possibilities, and I would look at them in the simplest order first 1 bad or fouled spark plug. You will also have to swap the power in wires from under the flywheel, the depending on the year some are connected thru a rubber connector, which you can pull the pins and interchange them. This interlock is operated by the shifting lever. The lever places the timing plate interlock so the throttle can not be placed in any speed faster than "START". You can pull the starter rope handle right off the end or break the rope, if you jerk the rope hard enough, are not suspecting that the thing is locked in the safety position. It is supposed to be set so that the motor will start in either forward, neutral or reverse but only run at a restricted speed. If it is moved to forward, then maximum speed can be achieved. On the early motors, for sure, this interlock does not exist.

    Some fishermen may disconnect or modify the above safety features if they use the motor for a back-up or emergency motor where every second may count. For the electric start models there is another but hidden push button type switch that is connected in line so that the shifting lever has to be in neutral for the starter button to activate the starter itself. On thiswith the shift lever placed in forward, the metal Neutral Safety lever timing plate stop has dropped down, allowing the timing plate to over-ride the stop by minimal clearance giving full throttle movement. This timing plate is rotated by linkage to the twist grip throttle handle. These are actually called Leaf Valves in the OMC parts books. If they are not seating properly, this could contribute to hard starting, BUT it would be one of the last things I would look at if the motor has not been recently worked on. If you suspect a problem with them, pull the air breather box off. Rather hard to detect however if it is bent or slightly misaligned. Possibly low on power for one. In the picture below, apparently someone took it apart, reinstalled the reed valves off set to one side on the bottom, leaving a gap as seen at the bottom arrow, creating a leakage for one set of valves. The upper one has what appears to be salt corrosion under the reed and the plate. These valves have to seat on the plate, a good solid surfaceno gaps, or corrosion. The thicker U shaped parts that have the screws thru them are the reed valve stops, so that the thin valves do not get deformed by being pulled inward beyond their limits. There appears to be some evidence of rust, possibly salt corrosion here.

    технические характеристики лодочного мотора джонсон 50

    Neglected or possibly a dunked motor. One thing here, you will never be able to salvage the gaskets on either side of this valve plate as seen in the photo, so you will need new gaskets, one against the block and the other on the manifold side. Occasionally the possibility exists that a reed valve will break, when this happens the motor will not run very well, you should be able to hear a sucking noise from the carburetor at low speed it it will run that slow. Also when rebuilding a motor, you may find that one reed valve may not lay flat to the plate. If this is the case look at the plate for straightness. If the gaskets were stuck tight, you had to hammer or pry this plate off the block, you may have bent it. If so simply lay it on a flat plate, using a hammer apply a slight amount of force in the proper location. Once it is bolted back down, it will usually then conform. This has not happened to me but was posted on one of the message boards.

    технические характеристики лодочного мотора джонсон 50

    The motor was hard to restart when warm. It was finally traced to a small section of the plastic idle jet knob had broken off, sucked into the manifold, became stuck under one of the reed valves. This motor would run but was lacking full power. Keep track of your tie tapes. Most logically this could be attributed to a spun hub in the prop. These props use no shear pin, being a thru the hub exhaust, use a rubber bushing that is bonded both to the splined inner hub and the outer prop body. If for reason, possibly hit something hard while runningthis bond could be broken loose. It could be tight enough to hold for say a trolling speed, but if you rev it higher, then the hub may slip inside the bushing, causing something just like a clutch on an older car slipping. This is easy to check, pull the prop off, look at the front of the prop and you can see the rubber hub between the inner metal splined hub and the prop body. Here, scribe a reference line on the metal spline in line on the metal portion of the prop the hub sets in. Now put the prop back on the motor and go run it until the problem occurs again. Pull the prop back off and check the reference mark.

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